It is a term you will hear more and more, which may seem obscure at first glance and does not necessarily express well what it represents, but it is the one that seems to have reached a consensus in the small world of coffee, both among professionals and individuals.
Context of specialty coffee - n.m.
A term still obscure to some, a gustatory revelation for those who have discovered it.
One thing is certain: once you have tasted specialty coffee after drinking "commodity" coffee since a young age, there is no turning back.
Today, the specialty coffee market, still tiny, represents 1% of global production. It has, however, become an important segment in certain markets like the United States, England, or Northern European countries, with 15 to 20% of total coffee consumption.
To illustrate this turning point, let's take natural wine (without added sulfur and without inputs), which has succeeded in shaking up the centuries-old codes and traditions of conventional wines, and has made a place for itself at the tables of the most prestigious wine bars and restaurants. IPA beers are another possible analogy: coming from the United States and arriving in France in the 2000s, they first surprised palates with their pronounced bitterness and then conquered the Hexagon. They are now essential in the majority of establishments and points of sale.
Specialty coffee seems to be following the same trend, and is gaining more and more momentum in the coffee landscape in France. However, this should not be considered as an incremental product to the range of coffees that we consume in France traditionally. It must be taken as a universe in its own right, a set of singular and complex products that no longer intervene only to pace our day with shots of caffeine, but rather to tell a story and offer us a tasting experience.
There are different definitions of specialty coffee, which we will present to you in this article, which aim to frame this rather vague term in an objective and rational way. Nevertheless, in our opinion, specialty coffee is a matter of sensations and deserves a more abstract definition as a complement. We therefore wanted to share with you our own interpretation, the one that rings true to our ears, the one that gave us the passion and the desire to create the Celsius roasting company. :
"Specialty coffee is emotions in every cup tasted. It is a story told by nature, reinterpreted by man for the greatest pleasure of his senses.
It is focusing mainly on quality and not quantity. It is also a story of sharing, like a beautiful bottle of wine that one would taste with friends or family."
Origin of the term "specialty coffee" - n.f.
The concept appeared in the 1970s in the United States, under the impulse of Erna Knutsen who discovered the richness and complexity of coffee by taking an interest in microclimates, the work of producers, and certain local roasters. These were breaking away from industrial production and working on models much more virtuous for the environment and the coffee industry. Convinced of the importance of the relationship of trust throughout the chain to produce high-quality coffee, she created her own coffee company in 1985 and bought all her coffees directly from the producers.
A few years later, she co-created the SCAA, "Specialty Coffee Association of America," in order to promote quality coffee and stand out from the conventional and industrialized market.
This association would gradually structure the specialty coffee industry around the world, by creating bodies specific to each country (as in France in 2005), proposing recognized training programs, and organizing international competitions. The SCAA allowed for the grouping of all stakeholders: producers, importers, roasters, and baristas, with a common goal of excellence, from plant to cup, by constantly seeking quality at every link in the chain. (See the article on the history of coffee)
Definitions around specialty coffee - n.f.
Now that the context is set, it is appropriate to define exactly what specialty coffee is, which we contrast in some aspects with so-called "commodity" coffee and which has long been considered of superior quality.
It is therefore difficult to give a short definition of specialty coffee; it is surely more relevant to speak of specialty coffee as a plurality and a combination of distinctive attributes, which make a coffee unique and give it added value on the market.
However, here are the points that allow one to identify a specialty coffee and to better understand the distinction with the vast majority of coffee found on the market:
Fair remuneration for producers
The price paid to the producer is above market standards and allows for the fair compensation of producers. This is explained by the fact that specialty coffee is not indexed to the stock market. Its average price still follows the behavior of stock prices and climatic and geopolitical vagaries at the margins, but the price of each batch of coffee is determined above all by its intrinsic quality, the way it is produced, and its rarity.
A coffee scored above 80/100
On the universal scale established by the SCA, which through a sensory analysis protocol allows a score to be assigned to coffee based on its absence of defects and its aromatic profile. Added to this are a certain number of criteria (origin, varieties, and production process), which make the coffee a true gustatory experience.
A terroir coffee
Grown at high altitude, hand-picked at full maturity, and transformed into green coffee by adapted drying methods and rigorous storage. The production process is complex and requires long-term work from the producers. Like the greatest winemakers, each coffee farmer implements agricultural techniques that are unique to them to bring out the richness of the terroir and the varieties of coffee planted. Thus, one can find coffee profiles specific to each region: exotic fruits in the Yirgacheffe region of Ethiopia, subtle floral notes on a Geisha from Panama, or even notes of blackcurrant and brown sugar for a coffee from Kenya. There is something for everyone!
A qualified exporter and/or importer
The exporter and/or importer play a major role in ensuring consistent quality and traceability back to the farm. They are the ones who link the producers and the roasters. They are often very involved in the producing farms, often on-site, supporting coffee farmers with development, social, and environmental projects and sometimes even with the financing of infrastructure or labeling. They actively participate in establishing long-term, trusting relationships between the various actors in the world of coffee.
Mastered roasting
In order to best transcribe the character of the coffee, a gentle roasting is essential. (learn more about roasting) Commodity coffee, by contrast, tends toward a much darker roast, which will certainly erase defects but also burn all the aromas, eliminate acidity, and add bitterness to the cup. This rapid roasting (about 2 minutes) is also carried out with an economic perspective: the faster the bean is heated, the less machine time it uses.
For a specialty coffee roaster, this time will be between 8 and 17 minutes. Specialty coffee has nothing to hide; it is laid bare by a light and slower roast to reveal its natural aromas.
Finally, each coffee requires a specific cooking time, called a "roast profile." Each origin, each fermentation process, even each harvest reacts differently under the effect of roasting.
Thus, the roaster (the artisan), thanks to their experience, senses, and ultra-precise measurement software, will play with different parameters (time, heating power, temperatures, ventilation, drum speed, etc.) to refine their profile and adapt it to their coffee.
When this profile suits the roaster, it only remains to reproduce it to ensure consistency in the quality of the product and so that the customer finds the same result in the cup continuously.
Transparency
Transparency and traceability are essential throughout the production chain. This information is generally indicated on coffee bags:
- The precise varieties of the coffees, not just the mention of Arabica
- An origin down to the farm, the producer, or even the specific plot
- The drying and fermentation processes applied
- The altitude at which the coffees are produced
- The harvest period
- The roasting date, which gives a crucial indication of the ideal consumption duration (on average 60 to 90 days after roasting).
A restricted and specialized distribution network
The vast majority of specialty coffees are offered in independent coffee shops and at various roasters, in their store or on their website. For several years, we have noted an increased presence in bistronomic and gastronomic restaurants as well as in specialized grocery stores. Without this mastery of the distribution network, coffee can be consumed months or even years after roasting, and be but a shadow of itself. (see the article on coffee freshness to learn more)
Mastery of extraction and coffee service
Whether consumed as an espresso or using a gentle method (see the article on choosing your machine), the extraction must be controlled to fully benefit from the work done on the coffee upstream, otherwise all efforts are in vain and the result in the cup will not be optimal. (See the page on preparation recipes and tutorials). It goes without saying that coffee must be in bean form until the last few minutes before extraction (see the article on this subject), otherwise the vast majority of aromas will be lost and the result in the cup will be more than disappointing. Nothing should be left to chance, right down to the choice of water. (see the article on the importance of water)
A coffee consumer
That is to say, you. The approach of seeking higher quality coffee, the curiosity to know more from your restaurateur. Take the test: if you ask a restaurateur for the origin of the coffee they are serving you, and you get blank stares, consider that it is not specialty coffee. We have historically tended to reduce coffee in bars and restaurants to its method of extraction: espresso, ristretto, americano, etc. It’s as if you were only given the cooking time of a piece of meat, without knowing anything about the animal or the cut.
And for at home, do not hesitate to exhaustively browse the labels of coffee bags before purchasing. Generally, tell yourself that the more subjective claims you have, such as "intense, exceptional, grand cru," the less chance you have of dealing with a specialty coffee. (See the article on the intensity scale)
Conversely, if you observe a large number of precise details, such as the farm, the altitude, the roasting date, or even the fermentation processes, you are probably holding one in your hands.
Thus, the spirit of specialty coffee does not depend solely on your roaster, but begins well upstream of the roasting process, and must be respected right up to the cup so that the taste is at the expected level.
Limits of specialty coffee - n.f.
As with any denomination, any appellation, or any label, there are limits:
The SCA score
Although universal and regulated, the score out of 100 assigned by the SCA to coffees
inevitably holds a share of subjectivity. Between several Q-Graders there may be different appreciations of the quality of a coffee according to personal tastes, and even between several tastings by the same person, a stronger sensitivity to acidity for example depending on the time of day or what the taster has eaten or drunk before. Furthermore, the rating is assigned to a green coffee, but it will have been judged on a certain roast, after a certain time post-harvest. It is quite probable that coffee roasted in another way and after several months will be quite different. Q-Graders are trained to avoid these biases, but it is a difficult exercise where no one is infallible. At Celsius, we have chosen to reveal the SCA score of our coffees, as an indication and a benchmark, but we strongly advise you not to consider it as gospel and above all to trust your senses.
The promise of sustainable agricultural practices
Although specialty coffee is increasingly trending toward pesticide-free agriculture, it would be a lie to certify that all specialty coffees are grown without inputs. Some producing countries, like Ethiopia, even without being certified organic (as it is too expensive for small family farms), conduct their production in a completely natural way and often work in agroforestry (i.e., using the shade of trees and the interdependence of crops to protect coffee trees and develop a healthy and eco-responsible terroir). Other countries, however, like Kenya, are recording significant increases in the use of synthetic products; constrained by economic and financial pressure or a lack of support for more responsible methods. Here again, the role of exporters is crucial in selecting the producers who are most respectful and conscientious about their agricultural practices.
The promise of fair remuneration for producers
Specialty coffee ensures better income for producers, particularly thanks to a fairer distribution of the value chain. Nevertheless, as coffee is grown in regions of the world subject to fragile geopolitical contexts and prone to corruption, it is sometimes difficult to know who was really paid and how much. Financial exchanges are still mostly informal, and coffee farmers are paid in hard cash. This system benefits some more than others. Intermediaries, also called "coyotes" in Latin America, buy coffee lots directly in the most remote areas and take a "hefty" commission in the process, often arbitrarily. This problem highlights the importance of the work of exporters, in order to limit intermediaries who are not essential and who dilute the share of remuneration attributed to producers. More and more importers ensure total transparency regarding the breakdown of coffee prices, especially the actual share paid back to the farmer.
The profitability and viability of certain processes
Some very high-quality specialty coffees (rated 90+ on the SCA scale) do not systematically involve a sustainable economic model but rather contribute to the renown and prestige of the sector. For the best ones, they compete for the "Cup of Excellence," an annual international competition to identify the best coffees in the world. These coffees are then mostly sold at auction, and like wine or whiskey, they do not escape speculation surrounding certain coffee varieties or recognized producers. The coffees eventually end up in various international barista competitions or in the hands of a handful of roasters. These are, therefore, unique, exceptional lots, but produced in tiny quantities. They are expensive to buy, but also to produce, and therefore do not necessarily provide a living for the producer.
The democratization of specialty coffee
It is still a niche segment in France, still little known to the general public but which continues to develop. Its slow growth compared to our European neighbors can be explained by several reasons:
- Consumption habits influenced since the 1940s by West Africa and later Italy. For decades, we have consumed bitter, strong, and very often over-roasted coffee. The arrival of specialty coffee acts as a real flavor bomb; between fruity and floral aromas, natural acidity, and sweetness, our French palate is not yet used to it.
- The sacralization of coffee, which, as in the world of oenology, harms the product. Its nebulous and overly technical character can scare off most consumers. Fear of not finding the aromas one should smell in the cup, fear of not using the correct vocabulary, or even fear of entering a store specializing in coffee. But specialty coffee, like wine, is above all a story of sharing and requires neither vocabulary nor special gifts, just an interest in good products and the desire to drink a good coffee.
- The price barrier: like any superior quality product, coffee is not exempt from a higher cost. We have been used to paying for coffee at ridiculous prices (until the arrival of Nespresso), but it is important to emphasize the collective effort that producing a kilo of coffee represents. From the manual picking of the cherries, through the agricultural techniques used, the promotional and negotiation work of importers, and finally artisanal roasting, coffee is a luxury product, which justifies a certain price, variable depending on its origin and production methods. There is, however, something for every budget, and one can already drink a very good specialty coffee at reasonable (but fair!) prices.
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The barista's equipment to extract the best from coffee: it is a wide range of tools and accessories, which require time and money. This is, moreover, one of the components that does not facilitate the opening of specialty coffee to the entire population. The elitist world of coffee induces a constant search for the perfect extraction. This requires high-end equipment: grinder, all kinds of coffee makers, specific filters, or even a temperature-controlled kettle. The coffee enthusiast can always go further, the only limit being the budget allocated to the practice! (see the article on choosing your espresso machine)
Nevertheless, the rise of automatic bean-to-cup machines like Jura or De'longhi allows for partially solving the problem: opening the world of specialty coffee to the general public, previously reserved for a handful of aficionados. These machines, simple to use, represent a great gateway to consuming good coffee, without intellectualizing it too much and thinking about the multiple parameters to adjust for each cup tasted.
Conclusion - n.f.
Specialty coffee hasn't finished making headlines in the coming years. Far more than a passing fad linked to the rise of coffee shops in urban areas, it is an underlying trend that is taking hold: "consume less but better." It is the ambition to restore coffee to its former glory, to taste the result in the cup of months of work by passionate producers and artisans. It is understanding the diversity of terroirs, origins, coffee varieties, roasting types, or even extraction methods to appreciate their particularities.
However, in an increasingly critical environmental context, the coffee industry is not spared. Even as global demand for coffee increases (+3.3% between 2021 and 2022), production is down (-2.1% between 2021 and 2022), due to weather conditions (erratic droughts, heavy rains, frosts). The impact of climate change is all the more significant on sensitive varieties like Arabica, which represents nearly 60% of the coffee sold in the world. (Colombia recorded a 12% drop vs. 2021).
To mitigate this demand, the mass coffee industry risks moving toward increasingly intensive agriculture, including deforestation and monocultures under a blistering sun. This will only accentuate carbon emissions and accelerate global warming.
The coffee market must find alternatives to adapt to these contingencies: identifying more resistant species, implementing more sustainable farming methods, but this will probably not be enough to cover the growing demand, which will require moving toward a perhaps more reasoned consumption, "less but better."
At Celsius, we only offer specialty coffees, with the goal of creating long-term relationships with producers to help build a sustainable industry. This involves finding alternative solutions on a daily basis to minimize our carbon footprint, and always seeking out exceptional products for a unique experience and to share our passion for coffee with you.
Specialty coffee chain - n.f.
Sources:
Towards a Definition of Specialty Coffee, SCA 2021
Le café c’est pas sorcier, Sébastien Racineux and Chung Leng Tran
https://barista.by/en/articles/article2
https://www.cafemag.fr/2020/04/12/cafe-de-specialite-specialty-coffee/
SCA_Carbon_and_Coffee_Report_2022