It's a term you'll hear more and more, which may seem obscure at first glance and doesn't necessarily express what it represents well, but it's the one that seems to be the consensus in the small world of coffee, both among professionals and individuals.
Specialty coffee context - nm
A term still obscure for some, a taste revelation for those who have discovered it.
One thing is for sure: once you've tasted specialty coffee after drinking "convenience" coffee since childhood, there's no going back.
Today, the specialty coffee market, still tiny, represents 1% of global production . However, it has become an important segment in certain markets such as the United States, England, and Northern European countries, accounting for 15 to 20% of total coffee consumption.
To illustrate this shift, let's take natural wine (made without added sulfur or other additives), which has successfully shaken up the centuries-old codes and traditions of conventional wines and earned a place on the tables of the most prestigious wine bars and restaurants. IPA beers offer another possible analogy: originating in the United States and arriving in France in the 2000s, they initially surprised palates with their pronounced bitterness before conquering the country. They are now a staple in most establishments and retail outlets.
Specialty coffee seems to be following the same trend and is gaining increasing prominence in the French coffee scene. However, it shouldn't be considered a mere addition to the range of coffees traditionally consumed in France. It should be viewed as a distinct category, a collection of unique and complex products that no longer simply punctuate our day with caffeine jolts, but rather tell a story and offer a unique tasting experience.
There are various definitions of specialty coffee, which we will present in this article, aiming to objectively and rationally frame this rather vague term. However, in our opinion, specialty coffee is about sensations and deserves a more abstract definition as well. We therefore wanted to share our own interpretation, the one that resonates with us, the one that sparked our passion and desire to create Celsius Roastery.
“Specialty coffee evokes emotions with every cup enjoyed. It’s a story told by nature, reinterpreted by Man for the greatest pleasure of his senses.”
It's about focusing primarily on quality, not quantity. It's also about sharing, like a fine bottle of wine enjoyed with friends or family.
Origin of the term "specialty coffee" - nf
The concept emerged in the 1970s in the United States, driven by Erna Knutsen, who discovered the richness and complexity of coffee by studying microclimates, the work of producers, and certain local roasters. These roasters were moving away from industrial production and working with models that were far more environmentally friendly and beneficial to the coffee industry. Convinced of the importance of trust throughout the supply chain for producing high-quality coffee, she founded her own coffee company in 1985 and buys all her coffee directly from the producers.
A few years later, she co-created the SCAA, "Specialty Coffee Association of America," to promote quality coffee and stand out from the conventional and industrialized market.
This association will gradually structure the specialty coffee industry worldwide, creating bodies specific to each country (as in France in 2005), offering recognized training programs, and organizing international competitions. The SCAA has brought together all stakeholders: producers, importers, roasters, and baristas, with the shared goal of excellence from plant to cup, constantly striving for quality at every link in the chain. ( See the article on the history of coffee)
Definitions related to specialty coffee - nf
Now that the context is established, it is appropriate to define exactly what specialty coffee is, which is contrasted in some aspects with so-called "convenience" coffee and which has long been considered to be of superior quality.
It is therefore difficult to give a short definition of specialty coffee; it is surely more relevant to speak of specialty coffee as a plurality and a combination of distinctive attributes, which make a coffee unique and give it added value on the market.
However, here are the points that allow you to identify a specialty coffee and better understand the distinction from the vast majority of coffee found on the market:
Fair compensation for producers
The price paid to the producer is above market standards, ensuring fair compensation for producers. This is because specialty coffee is not indexed to the stock market . While its average price does fluctuate slightly with stock market performance and climatic and geopolitical events, the price of each batch of coffee is primarily determined by its intrinsic quality , production methods, and rarity.
A coffee shop rated over 80/100
The universal scale established by the SCA uses a sensory analysis protocol to assign a score to coffee based on its lack of defects and its aromatic profile. Added to this are a number of criteria (origin, varieties , and production process) that make coffee a truly exceptional taste experience.
A locally sourced coffee
Grown at high altitudes, hand-picked at peak ripeness, and transformed into green coffee using appropriate drying methods and rigorous storage, the production process is complex and demands a long and dedicated effort from the producers. Like the finest winemakers, each coffee grower employs their own unique agricultural techniques to bring out the richness of the terroir and the coffee varieties planted. As a result, each region offers distinct coffee profiles: exotic fruit notes in the Yirgacheffe region of Ethiopia, subtle floral notes in a Geisha from Panama, or hints of blackcurrant and brown sugar in a Kenyan coffee. There's something for everyone!
A qualified exporter and/or importer
The exporter and/or importer plays a major role in ensuring consistent quality and traceability back to the farm . They are the link between producers and roasters. They are often deeply involved on the farms, frequently working on-site, supporting coffee farmers with development, social, and environmental projects, and sometimes even financing infrastructure or certification. They actively participate in building long-term relationships and trust among the various stakeholders in the coffee industry.
A controlled roasting process
To best capture the character of the coffee, a light roast is essential. ( Learn more about roasting) Conversely, convenience coffee tends towards a much darker roast, which will certainly mask flaws but also burns all the aromas, eliminates acidity, and imparts bitterness to the cup. This quick roasting (approximately 2 minutes) is also done for economic reasons: the faster the beans are heated, the less time the machine requires.
For a specialty coffee roaster, this time will be between 8 and 17 minutes. Specialty coffee has nothing to hide; it is laid bare by a light and slower roasting process to reveal its natural aromas .
Finally, each coffee requires a specific roasting process , called a "roasting profile". Each origin, each fermentation process, even each harvest reacts differently to roasting.
Thus, the roaster (the craftsman), thanks to his experience, his senses and ultra-precise measurement software, will play on different parameters (time, heating power, temperatures, ventilation, drum speed, etc.) to refine his profile and adapt it to his coffee.
When this profile suits the roaster, all that remains is to reproduce it to ensure consistency in product quality and to ensure that the customer consistently receives the same result in the cup.
Transparency
Transparency and traceability are essential throughout the production chain. This information is generally indicated on coffee packaging:
- The specific varieties of coffee, and not just the mention of Arabica
- From its origin to the farm, the producer, or even the specific plot of land in question
- The drying and fermentation processes applied
- The altitude at which the coffees are produced
- The harvest period
- The roasting date, which gives a crucial indication of the ideal consumption period (on average 60 to 90 days after roasting).
A limited and specialized distribution network
Specialty coffees are mostly found in independent coffee shops and at various roasters , either in their stores or on their websites. In recent years, there has been a growing presence in bistronomic and gastronomic restaurants, as well as in specialty food stores. Without this control over the distribution network, coffee can be consumed months or even years after roasting and be a mere shadow of its former self. ( See the article on coffee freshness for more information.)
Mastery of coffee extraction and service
Whether consumed as an espresso or using a gentler method ( see the article on choosing your machine), the extraction must be controlled to fully benefit from the work done on the coffee beforehand; otherwise, all the effort is wasted and the result in the cup will not be optimal. ( See the page on recipes and preparation tutorials ). It goes without saying that the coffee must remain in bean form until the very last minutes before extraction ( see the article). (Regarding this), or the vast majority of aromas will be lost and the result in the cup will be more than disappointing. Nothing should be left to chance, right down to the choice of water. ( See the article on the importance of water.)
A coffee consumer
That is to say, you. The process of seeking out better quality coffee , the curiosity to learn more from your restaurant owner. Try this: if you ask a restaurant owner about the origin of the coffee they're serving you, and you get wide eyes, consider it not specialty coffee. Historically, we tend to reduce coffee in bars and restaurants to its extraction method: espresso, ristretto, Americano, etc. It's as if you were only given the cooking method for a piece of meat, without knowing anything about the animal or the cut.
And for home use, don't hesitate to thoroughly read the labels on coffee bags before buying. Generally speaking, the more subjective descriptions you see, such as "intense," "exceptional," or "grand cru," the less likely you are to be dealing with specialty coffee. ( See the article on the intensity scale)
Conversely, if you observe a large amount of precise information, such as the farm, altitude, roasting date or fermentation processes, you probably have one in your hands.
Thus, the spirit of specialty coffee does not depend solely on your roaster, but begins well before roasting, and must be respected all the way to the cup so that the taste is at the expected level.
Limits of specialty coffee - nf
As with any name, designation or label, there are limits:
The SCA score
Although universal and structured, the score out of 100 awarded by the SCA to cafes 
inevitably involves a degree of subjectivity . Q-Graders may have different opinions on the quality of a coffee depending on personal taste, and even between tastings by the same person, there may be a greater sensitivity to acidity, for example, depending on the time of day or what the taster has eaten or drunk beforehand. Furthermore, the rating is given to a green coffee, but this coffee will have been judged on a specific roast, after a certain amount of time post-harvest. It is quite likely that coffee roasted differently and after several months will be very different. Q-Graders are trained to avoid these biases , but it is a difficult exercise where no one is infallible. At Celsius, we have chosen to disclose the SCA score of our coffees as an indication and a benchmark, but we strongly advise you not to consider it gospel and, above all, to trust your own senses.
The promise of sustainable agricultural practices
While specialty coffee is increasingly moving towards pesticide-free farming, it would be misleading to claim that all specialty coffees are grown without any inputs. Some producing countries, like Ethiopia, even without organic certification (as it's too expensive for small family farms), manage their production in a completely natural way and often practice agroforestry (that is, using tree shade and intercropping to protect coffee trees and develop a healthy, eco-responsible terroir). Other countries, however, like Kenya, are experiencing significant increases in the use of synthetic products , driven by economic and financial pressures, or a lack of support for adopting more responsible methods. Here again, the role of exporters is crucial in selecting the most respectful and conscientious producers regarding their agricultural practices.
The promise of fair compensation for producers
Specialty coffee ensures better incomes for producers, particularly thanks to a fairer distribution of profits along the value chain. However, because coffee is grown in regions of the world subject to fragile geopolitical situations and plagued by corruption , it is sometimes difficult to know who has actually been paid and how much. Financial transactions are still largely informal, and coffee farmers are paid in cash. This system benefits some more than others. Middlemen , also known as "coyotes" in Latin America, buy batches of coffee directly from the most remote areas and take a hefty commission, often arbitrarily. This problem highlights the importance of exporters' work in limiting unnecessary intermediaries who dilute the producers' share of the profits. Increasingly, importers are ensuring complete transparency regarding the breakdown of coffee prices, including the actual share paid to the farmer.
The profitability and viability of certain processes
Some very high-quality specialty coffees (rated 90+ on the SCA scale) don't necessarily imply a sustainable economic model but rather contribute to the renown and prestige of the industry. The very best compete in the " Cup of Excellence ," an annual international competition to identify the world's finest coffees. These coffees are then mostly sold at auction, and like wine or whisky, are not immune to speculation surrounding certain coffee varieties or renowned producers. The coffees ultimately end up in various international barista competitions or in the hands of a handful of roasters. They are therefore unique, exceptional lots, but produced in extremely small quantities. They are expensive to buy and to produce, and thus do not provide a living for the producer.
The democratization of specialty coffee
It's still a niche segment in France, relatively unknown to the general public, but steadily growing. Its slower growth compared to our European neighbors can be explained by several factors:
- Our consumption habits have been influenced since the 1940s by West Africa and later Italy. For decades, we have consumed bitter, strong, and very often over-roasted coffee. The arrival of specialty coffee has been a veritable flavor explosion, with its fruity and floral aromas, natural acidity and sweetness—something our French palates are not yet accustomed to.
- The over-secularization of coffee , which, as in the world of wine, is detrimental to the product. Its nebulous and overly technical nature can intimidate most consumers. They fear not finding the aromas they expect to detect in a cup, fear not using the correct terminology , or even fear entering a specialty coffee shop. But specialty coffee, like wine, is above all about sharing and requires neither specialized vocabulary nor any particular talent, just an interest in good products and the desire to drink a good cup of coffee.
- The price barrier: like any premium product, coffee is not exempt from a higher cost. We've become accustomed to paying ridiculously low prices for coffee (until Nespresso arrived), but it's important to highlight the collective effort involved in producing a kilo of coffee. From the hand-picking of the cherries, through the agricultural techniques used, the promotional and negotiating work of importers, and finally the artisanal roasting, coffee is a luxury product, which justifies a certain price, varying according to its origin and production methods. Nevertheless, there's something for every budget, and you can already enjoy very good specialty coffee at reasonable (but fair!) prices.
-
A barista's equipment for extracting the best coffee is a wide range of tools and accessories, requiring both time and money. This is, in fact, one of the factors that makes specialty coffee less accessible to everyone. The elitist world of coffee fosters a constant quest for the perfect extraction. This demands high-end equipment: grinders , various types of coffee makers, specific filters, and even kettles with adjustable temperature settings . Coffee enthusiasts can always push the boundaries further; the only limit is their budget! ( See the article on choosing your espresso machine.)
Nevertheless, the rise of automatic bean-to-cup machines like Jura and De'Longhi partially addresses the problem: opening up the world of specialty coffee to the general public, a world previously reserved for a select few aficionados. These user-friendly machines offer a great entry point to enjoying good coffee without the need for overthinking or delving into the numerous parameters to adjust for each cup.
Conclusion - nf
Specialty coffee is sure to remain a hot topic in the coming years. Far more than a passing fad linked to the rise of coffee shops in urban areas, it represents a fundamental trend: "consume less but better." It's about restoring coffee to its former glory, savoring the result in a cup of months of work by passionate producers and artisans. It's about understanding the diversity of terroirs, origins, coffee varieties, roasting styles, and extraction methods to appreciate their unique characteristics.
However, in an increasingly critical environmental context, the coffee industry is not spared. Even as global demand for coffee increases ( +3.3% between 2021 and 2022 ), production is declining (-2.1% between 2021 and 2022) due to adverse weather conditions (widespread droughts, heavy rains, and frosts). The impact of climate change is particularly significant on sensitive varieties such as Arabica, which represents nearly 60% of the coffee sold worldwide. ( Colombia recorded a 12% decrease compared to 2021 ).
To meet this demand, the mass coffee industry risks shifting towards increasingly intensive agriculture, including deforestation and monocultures under scorching sun. This will only exacerbate carbon emissions and accelerate climate change.
The coffee market needs to find alternatives to adapt to unforeseen events: identifying more resistant species, implementing more sustainable farming methods, but this will probably not be enough to cover the growing demand, which will require moving towards perhaps more reasoned consumption, "less but better".
At Celsius, we offer only specialty coffees, with the goal of building long-term relationships with producers to help create a sustainable supply chain. This involves finding alternative solutions every day to minimize our carbon footprint, and always seeking out exceptional products for a unique experience and to share our passion for coffee with you.
Specialty coffee chain - nf
Sources:
Towards a Definition of Specialty Coffee , SCA 2021
Coffee is not rocket science, by Sébastien Racineux and Chung Leng Tran
https://barista.by/en/articles/article2
https://www.cafemag.fr/2020/04/12/cafe-de-specialite-specialty-coffee/
SCA_Carbon_and_Coffee_Report_2022