Sommeliers: Why should you be interested in coffee?

In our opinion, this is the original sin, and in fact one of the reasons why we founded Celsius: the possibility in certain nice restaurants of presenting you with a veritable tome of more than 500 wine references and of telling you the identity of the dog of the winemaker's sister-in-law, and of finishing the meal with the sad mention of "espresso" and its price, without any idea of its country of origin and even less of the coffee grower.

It still seems absurd to us as we write these lines, but it's a case we still encounter frequently. And here are some particularly eloquent verbatim quotes on the lack of emotion that coffee arouses in some people:

"I don't have any bad feedback."

"Nobody complains."

Apply these quotes to the wine list and we'll doubt the sommelier's satisfaction. Settling for the absence of bad reviews is a slippery slope to mediocrity, and can taint the perfection of the rest of the meal and drinks.

Reasons - nf

Here are several points why, in our opinion, sommellerie as a whole should be interested in coffee, especially specialty coffee:

The final note : let's use the analogy of music, whatever the style. If you like a piece, a song, or even a set, and you find the last few bars disappointing, you'll still remember them. In the case of coffee, this is even more true since industrial coffee has this unfortunate tendency to leave a very long, burnt finish, and spoil the finesse of the entire performance. What a shame to finish a bottle of Coche-Dury and then gulp down an industrial coffee in one gulp!

A testament to your refinement : Since coffee is the poor relation of the restaurant industry, carefully selecting and showing interest in it will speak volumes about your perfectionism. This will allow you to subtly stand out, adding a final touch of excellence.

 Alcohol-free : The alcohol-free trend is no longer a trend and is becoming a staple of meals, whether at lunch or dinner. But let's face it, the majority of drinks claimed to be alcohol-free lack panache and complexity, are sometimes too sweet, or are substitutes for classic alcoholic drinks. So don't be surprised if someone orders you a carafe of water to accompany your meal. There are fabulous pairings with coffee, if you take the time to look into them. This mainly involves exceptional filter coffee, which requires trained and sensitive staff. Still niche, these pairings are being developed at the Crillon in Paris or at Noma in Copenhagen.

International clientele: we're behind the times. We're one of the countries that has been important in the history of coffee, just like Italy. Yet, probably out of ego, we're like Italy, very behind the times in our interest in coffee. We're mocked by most Western countries for our taste for "very burnt" and "floaty" coffee. So, if as a sommelier you often deal with an international clientele—American, Australian, or even English—it's possible that they know a lot more about coffee than you do. So if you're happy with the word "espresso" on your menu and an industrial coffee "that no one complains about," don't be surprised if you can't sell any.

Steps - nf

So, if these words resonate with you, here are our tips for showing that you take coffee as seriously as your wine list:

1) Look for a specialty coffee roaster : refer to our definition to understand what we are talking about. This will ensure traceability and a much higher level of quality. He will also be able to guide you on your equipment.

2) Be prepared to pay more : good coffee for less than €20 excluding VAT per kilogram no longer exists. If you really want to ensure a sustainable supply of good quality, expect to pay between €25 and €30 excluding VAT per kilogram.

3) Be independent : and don't expect the same gifts as with a manufacturer. There was a time not so long ago (or even a little contemporary) when every restaurateur relied on his industrial roaster to provide him with a free coffee machine, coffee grinder, cups, sugars, biscuits and even maintenance. Although seemingly free, all these gifts are of course included in the price of the coffee, and constitute a disguised bank loan. The emphasis was on everything except the coffee, with major brands competing in ingenuity to lock you in and turn you into sandwich men. Don't give in to the equipment offered in the colors of these brands, unless you really want to communicate with pride about your choice of roaster. Offer your vision of the service and prefer to talk about the product in your own words rather than with a logo.  

4) Be demanding of your roaster: The previous point does not mean expecting nothing from your roaster. They must offer you the same equipment for sale or rental, and in rare cases, make it available. They must therefore work with you to find the best coffee machine based on your flow rate, your space, and your type of establishment. If you already have your equipment, they must be able to adjust it so that their coffees come out in the best possible way. They must also come by regularly to ensure that your equipment is properly adjusted. It is also their responsibility to ensure water filtration and change the filter cartridge regularly. They must also provide you with a consistent product. This is a criticism regularly made by restaurateurs regarding artisanal roasters: "the quality is inconsistent." Since coffee is a living and seasonal product, it is likely that your roaster will have to change its supply from one year to the next. But he must find similar olfactory profiles, or failing that, warn you to possibly carry out tests with you and your customers.

5) Value it: You've chosen a superior quality coffee; there's no reason to sell it at the same price as your old industrial coffee. However, be aware that a 10-cent increase in your selling price allows you to amortize a €10 (excluding VAT) increase per kilogram on your pack of coffee without affecting your margin.

Example : Marcel offers his industrial coffee at €2.20 including tax, which he buys for €17 excluding tax/kg. He earns €1.86 excluding tax per coffee.

If Marcel switches to a nice specialty coffee at €27 excluding VAT/kg and he changes his coffee to €2.30 including VAT, he will earn €1.87 excluding VAT per coffee, or even a little more.

In this same register of valorization, specify where your coffee comes from: the mention of the roaster is appreciated, as well as that of specialty coffee (especially for foreigners).

6) Know your product : If you offer a beautiful coffee without knowing how to talk about it, you've dribbled through the entire defense and hit the post. Ask your roaster for as much information as possible, and even better, attend a roasting. Imagine telling the customer, "We currently have a washed red bourbon from Rwanda by Bernard Uwitije, roasted cleanly by Celsius Roasters in Lyon." Sounds impressive, right? Even if the customer doesn't understand everything, it demonstrates your expertise right down to the end of the menu.

7) No coffee menu : Speaking of menus, it's a dream we often hear from wine enthusiasts like us: offering a coffee menu. Unfortunately, we strongly advise against it, because you would need to equip yourself with several coffee grinders that would have to be adjusted every morning. The other solution would be to buy capsules, but we strongly advise against this. Instead, choose a very good, well-adjusted coffee, even if it means changing it several times a year with your partner roaster.

In conclusion, despite a rather provocative tone, we are very optimistic about the future of specialty coffee in French restaurants. We are seeing a growing number of young sommeliers and restaurateurs curious about the subject. As is often the case, the trend first took hold in Paris, then gradually spread throughout France. This link between wine and coffee, which seems obvious to us, is being built, and it's a safe bet that France will quickly catch up in the coming years, eager to shine in everything related to the table and the taste of good things. As proof, the best roaster in the world in 2025 is French.

So if, as a sommelier or restaurateur, you want to develop credibility if not expertise, feel free to write to us so that we can tell you the best option, whether it be with us or with our colleagues.