In our opinion, this is the original sin, and in fact one of the reasons why we founded Celsius: the possibility in certain nice restaurants of presenting you with a veritable grimoire of more than 500 wine references and telling you the identity of the winemaker's sister-in-law's dog, and ending the meal with the sad mention of "espresso" and its price, without any idea of its country of origin and even less of the coffee grower.
It still seems absurd to us as we write these lines, but it's a case we still encounter frequently. And here are some particularly telling verbatim accounts of the lack of emotion that coffee evokes in some people:
"I haven't received any negative feedback."
"Nobody's complaining."
Applying these quotes to the wine list makes us question the sommelier's satisfaction. Simply being satisfied with the absence of negative feedback is a slippery slope towards mediocrity and can tarnish the perfection of the rest of the meal and drinks.
Reasons - n
Here are several reasons why, in our opinion, the sommelier profession as a whole should take an interest in coffee, and even more so in specialty coffee:
The final note : let's draw an analogy with music, whatever the style. If you like a piece, a song, or even a set, but find the last few bars disappointing, you'll still remember them. In the case of coffee, this is even more true, as industrial coffee has this unfortunate tendency to leave a very long, burnt aftertaste, spoiling the overall finesse of the performance. What a shame to finish a bottle of Coche-Dury only to then gulp down an industrial coffee!
A sign of refinement : since coffee is often the poor relation of the restaurant industry, carefully selecting it and showing interest in it speaks volumes about your perfectionism. This will allow you to subtly stand out, adding a final touch of excellence.
Alcohol-free : The trend for alcohol-free options is no longer just a fad and has become a staple of meals, whether at lunch or dinner. But let's be realistic, most drinks marketed as alcohol-free lack flair and complexity, are sometimes too sweet, or are simply imitations of classic alcoholic beverages. So don't be surprised if you're ordered a carafe of water to accompany your meal. There are fabulous pairings with coffee, if you take the time to explore them. This primarily involves exceptional filter-brewed coffee, which requires trained staff who are knowledgeable about the subject. Still relatively niche, these pairings are explored at the Crillon in Paris and Noma in Copenhagen.
International clientele: we're lagging behind. We're among the countries that have played a significant role in the history of coffee, just like Italy. Yet, perhaps due to our own ego, we, like Italy, are very late in our appreciation of coffee. We're ridiculed by most Western countries for our preference for "very burnt" and "watery" coffee. So, if as a sommelier you frequently deal with an international clientele—American, Australian, or British, for example—they may well know far more about coffee than you do. Therefore, if you simply list "espresso" on your menu and offer a mass-produced coffee "that no one complains about," don't be surprised if you struggle to sell it.
Steps - nf
So, if these words resonate with you, here are our tips to show that you take coffee as seriously as your wine list:
1) Look for a specialty coffee roaster : refer to our definition To understand what we're talking about, this will ensure traceability and a much higher level of quality. It will also allow them to advise you on your equipment.
2) Be prepared to pay more : good coffee for less than €20 excluding VAT per kilogram no longer exists. If you truly want to ensure a sustainable supply of good quality, expect to pay between €25 and €30 excluding VAT per kilogram.
3) Be independent : and don't expect the same perks as from a large-scale roaster. There was a time, not so long ago (and even somewhat recently), when every restaurateur relied on their industrial roaster to provide them with a free coffee machine, grinder, cups, sugar, biscuits, and even maintenance. Although seemingly free, all these perks are, of course, included in the price of the coffee and constitute a disguised bank loan. The focus was on everything except the coffee, with major brands vying to lock you in and turn you into walking billboards. Don't give in to the branded merchandise unless you genuinely want to proudly promote your choice of roaster. Offer your vision of service and prefer to talk about the product in your own words rather than using a logo.
4) Be demanding of your roaster: The previous point doesn't mean expecting nothing from your roaster. They should offer you the same equipment for sale or rent, and in rare cases, provide it on-site. They should work with you to determine the best coffee machine based on your volume, available space, and the type of establishment you run. If you already own your equipment, they should be able to adjust it so that your coffees turn out perfectly. They should also visit regularly to ensure your equipment is properly adjusted. It's also their responsibility to maintain water filtration and change the filter cartridge regularly. They must also provide you with a consistent product. This is a common criticism from restaurant owners regarding artisanal roasters: "The quality is inconsistent." Since coffee is a living, seasonal product, your roaster will likely need to change their supply from year to year. But he must find similar olfactory profiles, or failing that, inform you so that he can possibly conduct tests with you and your customers.
5) Add value to your product: You've chosen a premium coffee, so there's no reason to sell it at the same price as your old mass-produced coffee. Keep in mind, however, that a 10-cent increase in your selling price will offset a €10 (excluding VAT) price increase per kilogram of your coffee without impacting your profit margin.
Example : Marcel sells his industrial coffee for €2.20 including VAT, which he buys for €17 excluding VAT per kg. He earns €1.86 excluding VAT per cup.
If Marcel switches to a nice specialty coffee at €27 excluding tax/kg and he increases his coffee to €2.30 including tax, he will earn €1.87 excluding tax per coffee, or even a little more.
In this same vein of adding value, specify where your coffee comes from: mentioning the roaster is appreciated, as is mentioning specialty coffee (especially for foreigners).
6) Know your product : if you offer a great coffee without being able to talk about it, you've dribbled past the entire defense and hit the post. Ask your roaster for as much information as possible, and even better, attend a roasting session. Imagine telling a customer, "We currently have a washed Rwandan red bourbon from Bernard Uwitije, light roasted by Celsius Roasters in Lyon"—doesn't that sound impressive? Even if the customer doesn't understand everything, it demonstrates your expertise right down to the last detail on the menu.
7) No coffee menu : Speaking of menus, it's a dream we often hear from wine enthusiasts like ourselves: offering a coffee menu. Unfortunately, we strongly advise against it, as it would require several coffee grinders that would need to be calibrated every morning. The other solution would be to buy capsules, but we strongly advise against that as well. Instead, choose a very good, well-calibrated coffee, even if it means changing it several times a year with your partner roaster.
In conclusion, despite a somewhat provocative tone, we are very optimistic about the future of specialty coffee in French restaurants. We are seeing a growing number of young sommeliers and restaurateurs curious about the subject. As is often the case, the trend first took hold in Paris and is now gradually spreading throughout France. This seemingly obvious link between wine and coffee is still developing, and it's a safe bet that France will quickly catch up in the coming years, eager to shine in all things related to fine dining and the appreciation of good food. As proof, the world's best coffee roaster for 2025 is French.
So if, as a sommelier or restaurateur, you wish to develop credibility if not expertise, feel free to write to us so that we can advise you on the best option, whether it be with us or with colleagues.