In our view, this is the original sin, and frankly one of the reasons we founded Celsius: the situation in certain fine restaurants where they present you with a veritable grimoire of over 500 wine labels, detailing the name of the winemaker’s sister-in-law’s dog, only to end the meal with the sad, generic mention of “espresso” and its price, with no indication of its country of origin, let alone the coffee farmer.
It still seems just as nonsensical to us as we write these lines, but it is a case we still encounter frequently. And here are a few particularly telling verbatim comments regarding the lack of emotion that coffee elicits in some:
“I haven't had any negative feedback.”
“No one is complaining about it.”
If we were to transpose these quotes to a wine list, we would doubt the sommelier’s level of satisfaction. Settling for an absence of negative feedback is a slippery slope toward mediocrity, and can tarnish the perfection of the rest of the meal and drinks.
Reasons - n.f.
Here, in several points, is why we believe the entire sommelier profession should take an interest in coffee, particularly specialty coffee:
The final note: Let’s use a musical analogy, regardless of the style. If you like a piece, a song, or a DJ set, but find the final measures disappointing, those are the ones you will remember nonetheless. In the case of coffee, this is even more true, as commercial coffee has the annoying tendency to leave a very long, burnt finish, ruining the finesse of the entire experience. What a shame to finish a bottle of Coche-Dury only to then gulp down a commercial coffee!
A sign of refinement: As coffee is the poor relation of the restaurant world, selecting it with care and showing genuine interest will speak volumes about your perfectionism. This will allow you to stand out subtly by adding a final touch of excellence.
Non-alcoholic: The non-alcoholic trend is no longer a trend; it is becoming a staple of dining, both at lunch and dinner. But let’s be realistic: the majority of beverages claimed to be non-alcoholic lack flair and complexity, are sometimes too sweet, or are merely ersatz versions of classic alcoholic drinks. So, don't be surprised if customers order a carafe of water to accompany their meal. There are fabulous pairings with coffee, if one takes the trouble to look into it. This primarily involves exceptional filter coffee, which implies trained staff who are sensitive to the subject. Still a niche, these pairings are being developed at Le Crillon in Paris and Noma in Copenhagen.
International clientele: We are behind. We are among the countries that have mattered in the history of coffee, just like Italy. Yet, probably due to ego, we are—like Italy—very behind in our interest in coffee. We are mocked by most Western countries for our taste for “very burnt” and “watery” coffee. Thus, if as a sommelier you often deal with an international clientele—American, Australian, or English—it is possible that they know much more about coffee than you do. So, if you settle for the mention of “espresso” on your menu and a commercial coffee “that no one complains about,” don't be surprised if you fail to sell it.
Steps - n.f.
So, if these words resonate with you, here is our advice on how to show that you take coffee as seriously as your wine list:
1) Find a specialty coffee roaster: refer to our definition to understand what we are talking about. This will ensure traceability and a far superior level of quality. They will also be able to advise you on your equipment.
2) Be prepared to pay more: good coffee for less than €20 (excl. tax) per kilogram no longer exists. If you truly wish to ensure a sustainable, high-quality supply, expect to pay between €25 and €30 (excl. tax) per kilogram.
3) Be independent: and don’t expect the same gifts as you would from a commercial roaster. There was a time, not so long ago (and still somewhat contemporary), when every restaurateur counted on their industrial roaster to provide the coffee machine, the coffee grinder, the cups, the sugar, the biscuits, and even the maintenance for free. Although seemingly free, all these gifts are of course included in the price of the coffee and constitute a disguised bank loan. The emphasis was on everything except the coffee, with major brands competing in ingenuity to lock you in and make you into a walking billboard. Do not give in to free equipment branded with these logos, unless you truly want to proudly communicate your choice of roaster. Present your own vision of service and prefer to talk about the product with your own words rather than a logo.
4) Be demanding of your roaster: the previous point does not mean expecting nothing from your roaster. They must offer the same equipment for sale or rent, and in rare cases, provide it. They must think with you about the best coffee machine based on your volume, available space, and type of establishment. If you already own your equipment, they must be able to calibrate it so their coffees perform at their best. They must also visit regularly to ensure the equipment is properly adjusted. It is also their job to ensure proper water filtration and change the filter cartridge regularly. They must also provide a consistent product. This is a common criticism from restaurateurs regarding artisanal roasters: “the quality is inconsistent.” Since coffee is a living, seasonal product, it is likely that your roaster will have to change their sourcing from one year to the next. But they must find similar olfactory profiles, or failing that, warn you to potentially conduct tests with you and your clientele.
5) Value it: you have chosen a higher-quality coffee; you have no reason to sell it at the same price as your old commercial coffee. Note that a 10-cent increase in your selling price allows you to absorb a €10 (excl. tax) per kilogram increase in your coffee cost without affecting your margin.
Example: Marcel sells his commercial coffee for €2.20 (incl. tax), which he buys for €17 (excl. tax)/kg. He makes €1.86 (excl. tax) per coffee.
If Marcel switches to a fine specialty coffee at €27 (excl. tax)/kg and raises his coffee price to €2.30 (incl. tax), he will earn €1.87 (excl. tax) per coffee—actually a bit more.
In this same spirit of valuing your product, specify where your coffee comes from: mentioning the roaster is appreciated, as is specifying that it is specialty coffee (especially for foreign customers).
6) Know your product: if you offer a great coffee without knowing how to talk about it, you have dribbled past the entire defense only to hit the post. Ask your roaster for as much information as possible, and even better, attend a roasting session. Imagine telling a customer: “We currently have a washed Red Bourbon from Rwanda by Bernard Uwitije, light-roasted by Celsius Roasters in Lyon.” That sounds impressive, doesn't it? Even if the customer doesn't understand everything, it demonstrates your expertise to the very end of the menu.
7) No coffee list: speaking of a list, this is a dream we often hear from fellow wine enthusiasts like us: offering a coffee list. Unfortunately, we strongly advise against it, as you would need to be equipped with several coffee grinders that would need to be calibrated every morning. The other solution would be buying capsules, which we also strongly advise against. Prefer choosing one very good, well-calibrated coffee, even if it means changing it several times a year through your partner roaster.
In conclusion, despite a fairly provocative tone, we are very optimistic about the future of specialty coffee in French dining. We are seeing a growing number of young sommeliers and restaurateurs who are curious about the subject. As is often the case, the trend started in Paris and is gradually spreading to the rest of France. This link between wine and coffee, which seems so obvious to us, is under construction, and it is a safe bet that France will quickly make up for lost time in the coming years, eager to shine in everything related to dining and the taste for good things. As proof, the best roaster in the world for 2025 is French.
So, if as a sommelier or restaurateur you wish to develop credibility, if not expertise, feel free to write to us so that we can point you toward the best option, whether it is with us or with colleagues.